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WALKING WALES- Moelwyn Mawr |
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Tom Hutton takes a walk around one of Snowdon's more secluded surrounding mountain ranges.
As Snowdon becomes increasingly popular, so the surrounding mountain ranges start to feel more and more remote, and nowhere is this more apparent than in the Moelwyns, where it's still possible to walk for hours without seeing a soul. This walk makes a logical and reasonably easy round of the peaks at the southern end of the range – Moelwyn Mawr and Moelwyn Bach - and, whilst it catches the remote and wild flavour the massif is famous for, it follows mainly clear paths making it an ideal introduction to the range. The opening leg climbs the mighty Moelwyn Mawr via its shapely west ridge. It starts easily enough but becomes rougher the higher you go. The middle section links the two Moelwyn peaks via a 'scrambly' path that hurdles a minor peak along the way. This is followed by a steep and airy walkway that leads onto Moelwyn Bach. The descent is about as kind as it could be: soft underfoot and with fine views west over the sea.
Tom Hutton's latest guide is on pages 14-17.
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WELSH VILLAGES-Llanfairpwll |
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Britain is an island surrounded by islands, so this month Karen Foy sets off to one of these 'outposts' to discover, amongst other things, the story behind a village which is 'alphabetically challenged'.
Separated from the Welsh mainland by the Menai Straits, the isle of Anglesey boasts spectacular scenery and wildlife, but it has another 'claim to fame' as the home of the longest-named village in Britain.
Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch – often shortened to Llanfairpwll – has been inhabited for centuries. Originally a small rural settlement, it began to see major changes with the arrival of the Railways in the early 1850s. Divided into the Lower Village (Pentre Isaf) and the Upper Village (Pentre Uchaf), it became a commercial community with shopkeepers, schools, public houses and a post office, which could all serve the surrounding agricultural areas.Originally known as Llanfair Pwllgwyngyll - meaning 'The Mary Church by the pool near the White Hazels' - the extended name is said to have been invented by a local cobbler in the 19th century to encourage tourists and boost commerce – its popularity with visitors today is testament that the plan definitely worked! Notwithstanding this act of shrewd business acumen, Llanfairpwll is surrounded by constructions and buildings which have made their mark in history and are attractions in their own right.
See pages 6-9 for more on this "alphabetically challenged" village. |
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STORIES IN STONE- Perce Blackborow |
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This is the story of the eventful life of a modest man – and a cat. It is a story of the sea, stowaways, adventure, and a final sardine.
Perce Blackborow was born in Newport, Gwent, in April 1894 to a seagoing family. His father, John, was a ship's steward and clearly Perce wished to follow in his father's footsteps. He was so keen to go to sea that he added a year to his age, as young boys often did. One of his earliest engagements was serving as a deck hand on a London-registered ship, the 'Ladywood', from which he was discharged in 1912. The next record of him is on the ship 'Golden Gate', which was wrecked at Montevideo, Uruguay, in 1914, leaving Perce and a couple of friends stranded in South America: and so they travelled to Buenos Aires looking for a new ship.
The polar explorer, Ernest Shackleton, left London for Antarctica on 1 August 1914 onboard the 'Endurance'. The object of the expedition was to cross the Antarctic, from one side to the other, via the South Pole. Pausing at Buenos Aires, he sacked three of his crew - employment opportunities were suddenly created! Perce's two friends were taken on as able seamen, but the inexperienced Perce was not. However, his friends smuggled him onboard, hid him in a locker, and brought him food as often as they could. This has subsequently given Perce Blackborow notoriety as the only man ever to have stowed away on an expedition to the extreme weather of Antarctica! When he was eventually discovered, after three days, he had been so cramped that he couldn't stand and Shackleton had to put him in a chair to interview him. It was a very heated interview and it ended with 'the Boss' (as Shackleton was called), saying to Perce:
"Do you know that on these expeditions we often get very hungry and if there is a stowaway available he is the first to be eaten?"
Perce's spirited response was to say, "They'd get a lot more meat off you, sir."
Shackleton sent him to join the cook as a steward. Frankly, there wasn't much else Shackleton could do other than throw Perce overboard, and even in those days such an act would have been largely frowned upon.
To read more about Perce Blackborow see pages 21-22. |
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HOT FROM THE KITCHEN-Mary Ann Gilchrist |
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It has been a very busy couple of months and I am looking forward to a pleasant few days in Normandy in September. The beginning of July saw a massive effort to get the whole town spruced up. I have never seen so many volunteers rushing around tidying the place up with a dab of paint here and a cleaning of windows there. The reason for this feverish activity was that HRH the Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornwall were coming to the town to visit local businesses and discuss his ideas for the Cambrian Mountains Initiative (C.M.I), of which he is patron.
He visited a microbrewery and pulled a very good pint, an electronics firm and the recently opened butchers where he was presented with a leg of Beulah Speckled lamb. He visited us at Carlton Restaurant for a chat with the Cambrian Mountains' Ambassadors to clarify his hopes and ambitions for the initiative. He was absolutely charming and I think that this initiative is a very promising start to establishing the Cambrian Mountains as an area in its own right with wonderful produce and stunning scenery to attract visitors from all over.
Following the Royal visit I had a very busy day at the Cardigan Bay Seafood Festival where my colleagues and I cooked up all sorts of fish and, despite the weather, a good crowd turned out to support the day. In the evening there was quite a party, over which some would rather draw a veil. Suffice to say there were some sore heads at breakfast the next day!
We were very busy throughout July culminating in the Royal Welsh Week when we hosted the Swedish sheep-shearing team who were here for the world sheep shearing competition at the showground. There were competitors from as far afield as New Zealand and Lesotho, and most of them were staying here in Llanwrtyd Wells - it made for quite a multicultural few days.
Read more from Mary Ann on pg 30. |
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FISHING-Moc's Commandments |
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Moc's Commandments, or rather his guidelines, for successful fishing.
The Good Book tells us how Moses came down from Mount Sinai with the Ten Commandments which were intended to be the parameters for the behaviour of mankind.I have no intention of pontificating or of presenting you with a ten commandment version on angling as I know I would be guilty of breaking them even before the ink was dry. What I hope to do is present my own ten commandments as a short cut to catching those silver jewels in our rivers in the dark. These commandments are guidelines only - emanating from problems encountered and solved in over sixty years of concentrated sewin fishing.
My first commandment could therefore read: 'Thou shalt not fish any river, a beat of a river, nor a pool of a river unless you are assured that it holds a good stock of sewin.' This entails a daylight 'recce' and gathering information from the locals before you chose your location. It is always advisable to contact a friend to glean the local gen, as rivers vary in habits, try and find out if and when the sewin runs had taken place and where the sewin stayed.
The second commandment comes from my foolishness of fishing in the wrong location and not ensuring that my flies covered the correct holding area. I was fishing the River Dwyfor in North Wales; there were reports of big fish being taken regularly the previous week – but I was ill prepared and at midnight was fishless. Along came a local doyen who took me some forty yards up-river, made me stand in the middle of the pool and showed me exactly where to cast. Three casts resulted in a brace of sewin and one that kicked off. He also made me use his 'deadly fly' the Kingfisher Butcher on a size eight hook - the value local knowledge!
Moc Morgan OBE on page 13.
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PICTORIAL WALES- Kids with Cameras |
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The Carmarthenshire Heritage Regeneration Trust (CHRT) are working with the learning support units of 10 schools in south west Wales teaching the pupils how to use digital cameras. Project manager Mrs Cheryl Kitt and landscape photographer Mr Ken Day instruct the children in how to form and take photographs, how to download the images onto a computer and then edit and print the images. The project takes place over 5 months, with field trips to a variety of different local landscapes. At the end of the project the children have the tough task of choosing their personal 'favourite' 10 images, giving them titles, while explaining their choices which will then be displayed to the public in a local exhibition opened by the Mayor.
Milford Haven and Llanelli schools have successfully completed their phases of the project and held their exhibitions. Swansea schools are halfway through the process, with Carmarthen starting in September and Llandovery in January. On 2nd November there will be the Swansea schools free exhibition at Swansea Grand Theatre, starting at 12.30pm, before all ten schools finally exhibit in September 2011.
See more from Kids with Cameras on pages 44-47. |
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WILDLIFE- Keeping Something Special in Reserve |
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Here in Wales we have, by any standards, a wealth of wildlife and scenic beauty. One reason for this is that our countryside contains such diverse habitats. No one who lives in Wales has to travel very far to enjoy superb seashores, heathland and coastal cliffs, wild wooded valleys with rippling rivers and limpid lakes, wonderful wildflower meadows, great sweeps of majestic moorland, or towering mountain peaks.
Across the UK many of finest of ecological and geological sites are designated as National Nature Reserves (NNRs). England has 224 sites (five sites per million of human population) so special that they have earned the NNR designation. Wales, with fewer that three million people, has 72 such sites – five times as many NNRs per million of population. These special reserves are often referred to, and with good reason, as our environmental crown jewels. All this says something about how lucky we are to live in a land so rich in natural assets.
In this the International Year of Biodiversity, rather than feature just one of our NNRs why don't we consider a couple of the very special habitats included within the NNR suite and discuss examples of what you can see there?
Seashore Sites, Coastal Cliffs and Islands
It was on a beach that the Walrus and the Carpenter wept like anything to see such quantities of sand:
'If this were only cleared away,'
They said, 'it would be grand!'
Seashores mean sand and pebbles, the shells of dead bivalves and molluscs, and apparently not much else. Apparently... but appearances can be deceptive, for upon and within the sand, among the pebbles, and on the slopes of the dunes and in the flat areas between them - dune slacks as they are commonly called – live vast and diverse communities of plants, fungi and animals.
Read More from Pat O'Reilly on pages 10-12. |
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GARDENING-Bro Meigan Gardens |
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After twelve years here in West Wales I had still not managed to visit Bro Meigan Gardens in north Pembrokeshire, but now I have more time to explore the wealth of good gardens in south west Wales, on a recent Sunday afternoon I took time out to explore this peaceful 6.5 acre garden on the edge of the national park and its wonderful views over the Preseli hills.
The project was started by Lyn and Len Thoms who spent 18 years creating the gardens, despite having no formal horticultural training. When they retired in 2005 they found another dynamic couple to take over. Yvonne and David Gillett moved down from Lancashire, knowing very little about plants. In the intervening five years they put their own mark on the garden, continuing its growth and development, promoting the garden as somewhere peaceful where visitors are invited to leave the 21st century behind, to slow down and enjoy wildlife and nature in all its glory.
Continue the tour around Bro Meigan gardens on pages 61-63. |
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NEWSROUND-Water is the New Coal for Rural Wales |
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Some farmers can make £15-20K a year, tax free...........and it falls from the sky! Water is the new coal in Wales; it not only provides cheap, clean energy, but can generate a healthy profit.
The benefits are not just for farmers, as whole communities can climb on the water bandwagon with small-scale hydro electric schemes. A hydro power scheme with a 25-year lifespan, generating 16kW of electricity and costing £50,000 to install, could generate £12,000 a year, thanks largely to the government guaranteeing "feed-in" payments to private generators who feed power into the National Grid.
Brecon Beacons National Park, with its landscape, is home to 32,000 people and is ideal for the hydro electric schemes, and within 15 years could be carbon negative. The Denbighshire project could be just as fertile. Promoted by the rural regeneration agency Cadwyn Clwyd, with money from the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development (EAFRD), the Denbighshire project is part of a three-year plan to revitalise rural communities and their economies in the county.
Hydro power is not new to the countryside; this way of generating electricity was used extensively before the National Grid brought power to everyone. While individual landowners will naturally be looking to secure the future of their own property, landowners such as the Forestry Commission could be of more use for community hydro schemes.
For more news from around Wales see pages 18-19. |
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GETTING TO KNOW -An Unlikely Love Affair |
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South African Jurie Schoeman describes his ‘Unlikely Love Affair… with Wales’
It was a bright typical sunny South African day in Pretoria when Helena, the woman I have been married to for thirty years and loved a bit longer, said: “Come with me to Wales.”
I was left speechless. She asked me to leave our four adult children and livelihood with its trappings and go off with her to another country and live there – but for how long?
It transpired that the international IT Company she is employed by had won a contract in south Wales and she was asked to project-manage it. It took lots of thinking, reflecting and consulting with the kids before I was persuaded to participate. A quick search on the Web provided information and we prepared to live in a grey cold landscape for a number of years.
There was a fertile silence in the rental car as we drove from Cardiff Airport to the guesthouse in Rudry when we arrived in Wales. “But the green never stops...” Helena said. “Is this not beautiful?” The silence continued. I was already trying to find the words I would use to describe to all the relations back home what it looks like, but I could not.
See pages 26-27 for more on this unlikely love affair. |
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